Sun-dried tomatoes for the year-round pantry
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That juicy summer tomato might be seasonal, but its flavors don't have to be. Countless sun-dried tomato purveyors are practiced at storing the fruit in oil, preserving its sweet and tart charms.
James Beard Award-winning chef Michael Tusk of Quince in San Francisco offered this advice on what to look for when shopping for the antipasto essential: Start with regions known for quality tomatoes. "The south of Italy—Sicily, Campania, Napoli—has great sun-dried tomatoes," the chef said. "And if it's a small farmer with a history and a tradition behind the growing and drying, then you're going to enjoy it." Mr. Tusk adds that the color of the tomatoes should be, "red-fleshed, not brown, and they should keep their shape well. If you see fruit inside the jar that is broken, then it is over-dried." The flavor should be not too salty, intense yet fresh, with an "explosive" texture. For packing oil, Mr. Tusk said, "extra-virgin is preferred, and even better if it comes from the same producer or region." Manufacturers of the "semidried" variety—where the drying process is halted before the tomatoes are fully dehydrated—aim to preserve the freshest flavor and retain the most moisture.
I tasted a variety of brands, from over-salted and jerky-tough to plump and sweet and sensational. The best were, indeed, the Italian imports.
Villa Reale Semi-Dried Cherry Tomatoes F. Martin Ramin for The Wall Street Journal
Villa Reale Semi-Dried Cherry Tomatoes
Tasting notes: Big flavors come concentrated in small cherry form in these Sicilians, the best of the bunch. Semidrying allows the smaller fruit to retain its shape and original juices. Touches of basil, garlic and high-quality extra-virgin olive oil enhance their sweet, tomatoey essence. Best uses: On bruschetta, as a pizza topping, tossed in pasta, as an antipasto. $18, broders.com
DeCarlo Semi-Dried Cherry Tomatoes in Extra Virgin Olive Oil F. Martin Ramin for The Wall Street Journal
DeCarlo Semi-Dried Cherry Tomatoes in Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Tasting notes: This brand, based in Bari, claims a family history of harvesting tomatoes and olive oil since 1600. Oregano and a grassiness from the brand's vintage extra-virgin olive oil mark the fruit, with a light salting that brings out an earthy sweetness. The label recommends reserving the packing oil to use in salads, sauces and on meats. I dressed some arugula with it and was delighted with the two-in-one purchase.Best uses: Tossed in a salad, served over pasta, as a bruschetta topping. $10,ditalia.com
L'Oro di Laura Pomodori Secchi Sott'olio F. Martin Ramin for The Wall Street Journal
L'Oro di Laura Pomodori Secchi Sott'olio
Tasting notes: This Sicilian product offers a truly dried flavor, concentrated but without a raisiny aftertaste. The skin has a little give, lending the tomatoes a nice, sturdy texture. Simple seasonings of basil, oregano and garlic are present, and the oil—"pure" instead of extra virgin (and produced by the grower's uncle)—is light enough that it doesn't mask the fruit's innate flavor. Best uses: In a pomodoro soup, as a pizza topping, in a sauce. $10,dipaloselects.com
Bellino Sun Dried Tomatoes in Pure Olive Oil F. Martin Ramin for The Wall Street Journal
Bellino Sun Dried Tomatoes in Pure Olive Oil
Tasting notes: This common supermarket brand scored high for value, accessibility and brightness of flavor because of a lemony punch. Oregano and the balancing acidity of wine vinegar round out the taste. The label doesn't indicate where the product is from, only that the tomatoes are "Italian," and it does include a color preservative, but these tomatoes are great in a pinch when true Italian imports are elusive. Best use: Ground into a sauce. $5,
—Kathleen Squires
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